This is a short and sweet post on the hat I made at the last minute to go with my recent striped silk mid-1790s open robe.
**Warning: Long and image-heavy post ahead**
A new fashion exhibition has just opened up at the Daughters of the American Revolution museum here in DC, ‘An Agreeable Tyrant’: Fashion After the Revolution. It explores Americans’ various relationships with prevailing fashions during the early Federalist period of 1780s to 1820s. Over the past year I’d been assisting the curator, Alden O’Brien, with the exhibition. First, with some late-stage planning and design, then with drafting scaled down patterns of several of the garments going on display, a little bit of photography, and finally mounting the garments on their mannequins including making adjustments to the mannequins themselves and also making some of the underpinnings needed to properly display the garments. Most of this was on a volunteer basis but I also wrote one of the essays for the catalogue (on fashion and thrift) and that was on a professional level. It was very exciting for me because its the first time I get to see my name in print this way!
FYI: The exhibition runs until April 29, 2017 and the catalogue is available to purchase online here – and they do ship internationally.
Ok, this post is a long one, but I hope you’ll think it a good one.
I’m using this as my (slightly belated) entry for the HSM ’16 (Historical Sew Monthly) January challenge: procrastination. Doesn’t it just figure I’m a little late with it
I started this dress for last year’s challenge: out of your comfort zone, back in……May? April? Something like that. Considering I was feverishly working on finishing my PhD thesis at that time I wasn’t about to take on a whole new branch of sewing/needlework for this challenge. Instead I decided to take on one historical sewing technique that had long fascinated me but I’d been unsure of trying for some reason. The technique is a particular way of seaming bodices in the late 18th century. It consists of finishing the separate pieces of the bodice with their linings and then sewing them together with a very scant seam allowance (you’ll see what I mean in a moment).
The style of the dress is from (goddess) Norah Waugh’s Cut of Women’s Clothes, the 1797 open gown:
Ok, so I have a lot of catching up to do on here! Between finishing up my PhD and then an international move, there hasn’t been much time for blogging over the past few months. But I have been sewing during a lot of this “away” time. I made a natural form era summer suit, a vintage mash-up summer suit for my thesis defense, and three new dresses over the past 2-3 weeks. I’m also in the middle of a white cotton regency gown to wear with the blue silk spencer.
Today, I present a project I made for a Historical Sew Monthly challenge back in the spring: War & Peace. I did get it done and posted to the fb challenge album in by the challenge deadline, but never got around to blogging it. In the interest of catching up, this is going to be short and sweet, but I hope will still be worth your taking a look.
I hummed and hawed about what to do for War & Peace for some time trying to figure out what to do. Then I remembered those smart military-inspired hats women wore during the Napoleonic wars – feminized versions of the Shako hat/cap:
This is my entry for February’s Historical Sew Monthly challenge “Blue”. It wasn’t my initially intended entry, which was supposed to be a smart and clever-looking new pale blue wool coat made from a late teens/early 20s pattern I have. However, after doing a muslin and fiddling with it a bit I just wasn’t feeling it. I still hope to make it someday, but I wasn’t feeling totally enthusiastic about it and I think it’s too straight a silhouette for most of the clothes I wear, even though it has a little more flare than most styles from that period.
So, about the middle of the month I decided to completely switch tracks and make something that was nowhere on my sewing list/queue. Very practical decision (please note the sarcasm). I rationalized it to myself by saying that I had intended <someday> to make a new spencer from a piece of pale blue silk in my stash left over from the Regency ball ensemble I made a little over a year ago. And that even though I had no definite plans about it, it did get something off my sewing wishlist, at least, and used up an awkwardly-sized piece of fabric stash. In fact, everything on this came from stash, I didn’t purchase a single little bit for this, and that’s always nice.
I made the even more practical decision to hand sew the entire thing.
So let’s get to it, shall we?
My spencer is a combination of Sense & Sensibility’s pattern (which I already had and already used so I didn’t need to worry about fitting):
Hello again! I know it’s been a long while since I posted, but life just got too frantic. Since the new year started I’ve been sewing like mad on Tree. I’ve been photo-documenting the process and will have lots of posts on it, but for time being the emphasis needs to be on the sewing! Cause I’ve still got that other Garrison Ball dress to do while also working on a dress exhibit I’m curating and working on my dissertation. Another part of the time crunch is that I’m not home right now, I’m posting to you from London, England! I came over for a few weeks to speak at the University of Brighton as part of a seminar series then tie up some loose ends of research. Since I can’t work on my sewing while away, I can blog a bit again! I meant to finish a Tree post or two, but discovered after I arrived here that I didn’t have the right usb cord to hook my camera (where most of the photos still are) up to my laptop, d’oh.
Instead, I’ve decided to give you a couple of virtual tours of dress/costume exhibits in London. Yesterday I went to the V&A and snapped photos of the ‘permanent’ costume display there from the 1700s to the 1950s. I’m going to post this tour in several parts so as to keep the posts manageable sizes. On Friday I’ll be popping by the Museum of London and will try to get pics of the dress on display there, especially the “Pleasure Garden” exhibit of 18th – early 19th century dress, it’s a really delightful display!
Unfortunately, the quality of the photos I got yesterday is far below what I would prefer. The lighting is necessarily quite low and I only had my phone with me, so these are far from amazing shots, but at least you get to see what’s there and what’s said about it if you’re not likely to be visiting any time soon. On the other hand, the poor photo quality may not be the worst thing, since I wouldn’t want to try and replace the experience of going in person. And if it ever happens that the V&A is not happy with my posting a virtual tour, I will remove it.
So, without further ado, let’s begin our tour with Georgian and Regency era fashions:
I saved posting about the actual gown for the Regency Ball so that I could make it my entry for the last Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge of the year, #26: Celebrate!
One of the ‘rules’ of the HSF is that items should not be finished more than about 6 weeks before the challenge due date (I think). This one just made it in being finished a little over 5 weeks beforehand. Even if it hadn’t quite fit in I probably would have cheated and entered it anyway because it was too perfect not too, being made explicitly for a celebration. And not just any celebration, but the commemoration of bicentennial of one of the most influential books on current costume afficiandos: Pride & Prejudice.
I would have preferred more and better photos for this post, but for now the ones we were able to get in the low lighting of the ‘ballroom’ will have to do.
Here are the HSF details:
The Challenge: #26: Celebrate!
The Item: Regency Ballgown (& ensemble) for a ball in honour of the bicentennial of P&P’s first publishing
Fabric: pale blue dupioni (but a very smooth one), silk organza from an Indian shawl, ,
Pattern: I started with Sense and Sensibility’s Elegant Lady’s Closet bodice pattern for the wrap gown and ball sleeves as a base but modified them a great deal and took off from there on my own.
Year: c. 1813
Notions: ivory and gold trim bought in Istanbul, little buttons for the back closure and for the neckline pull-backs at the shoulders, narrow gold trim/thread I braided to trim the front edges of the overlay and the loops at the shoulders, pale blue braid trim (possibly vintage) for around the neckline and sleeve bands.
How historically accurate is it? It’s mostly machine sewn (I didn’t have time to hand-sew it up) with hand-sewn details so big points off for that. And it’s a mish-mash of dates spanning c. 1800 to almost 1820. The trim is made of synthetic fibres too. However, besides that I have to say that I think many a young lady during the Regency period would have been happy to wear this dress so I’ll give myself 70%.
Hours to complete: Quite a lot over 3 weeks
First worn: November 30th to the local Regency Ball
Total cost: All came from stash so no money spent directly on this. I would estimate a total of about $50-$60 thinking back on when I did buy this stuff and the amounts of it I used on the dress.
It was a very windy evening and we were having hair issues to begin with (the rag curls I tried to do didn’t work out as well as I’d hoped) so my hair is not nearly what I wish it to have been, but oh well.
After the dress, this piece was my favourite one to make for the ensemble. Hats and headwear are just so much fun to do!
I’m also entering this one for the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #25: One Metre
Here are the specs:
The Challenge: #25: One Metre – use only 1 metre of fabric or less, and preferably not tons of trimming
Fabric: less than 1 metre of pale blue silk dupioni (or shantung – it’s very smooth)
Pattern: None, but I used information from The Oregon Regency Society
Year: c. 1813
Notions: approx. 1m of trim, 1 feather, 1 tassel, 1 button, 1 piece of found-object jewellery, fabric scraps
How historically accurate is it? the foundation of the hat is machine sewn, but the rest is draped and hand-sewn; this conforms not badly with styles and materials from the time, so I’m giving it 70%
Hours to complete: approx. 5hrs (give or take)
First worn: November 30th to the local Regency Ball
Total cost: All made from scraps and stash items, so $0
Being historical-hair-impaired I am grateful that turbans were such a big thing for Regency formalwear, and so many of them are such fun! Since I was already playing rather fast and loose with the date of my Ballgown, I wasn’t particular about the specific date for my turban, choosing inspiration according to what took my fancy instead.
Here are some examples I felt particularly drawn to